There’s more to soccer culture than the professional game, which is why we’ve put together guides for each of MLS’ 19 markets. Whether you’re just dropping in on vacation or hitting the road with your fellow supporters, here’s the lowdown on what to do and how to do it.
SOCCER CULTURE
As far as Portland is concerned, the argument over who can claim the title of Soccer City USA starts and ends in the Rose City. The Timbers' rich history dates back to the spring of 1975 with the North American Soccer League. With scenes like this, when Portland beat the Seattle Sounders to reach the Soccer Bowl, who can argue?
Portland's fans back up the hype, having sold out every regular-season match at Providence Park since they joined MLS in 2011.
WHERE TO PLAY
You could write a book on this one, especially if you include indoor, beach and futsal options. The Oregon Adult Soccer Association has seven member leagues in the Portland area alone, with divisions for all age groups. The Greater Portland Soccer District is the biggest men's league around, while Metro PDX Soccer League offers 7v7 with men's, women's and co-ed divisions. If you're in town and want a game, you could probably just swing by one of at least 279 city parks and find someone kicking the ball around. Or you can go to The Portland Pick-Up Soccerers MeetUp.com site.
LOCAL CUISINE
Portland's food scene these days is hotter than Katy Perry's Super Bowl sharks. The New York Times, in fact, regularly writes about the Portlandia foodie scene. But if you need to go to three places, and three places only, here's our take:
- Pok Pok: Get the chicken wings. They're made with fish sauce. You'll thank us later.
- Biwa: It's a Japanese house of goodness. Go with the smoked pork shoulder or burger with house kimchi and chasyu pork. Again, you're welcome.
- Olympic Provisions: Two words: cured meats.
SOCCER BARS
On Timbers game day, every bar in town will have it on a TV. Here's a list of the Timbers' pub partners to get you started, but these are the top three:
- 442 Soccer Bar: In Portland's trendy Hawthorne neighborhood in Southeast Portland, it will literally have every soccer game you can imagine on TV. Can't find your beloved Indian Super League games? They'll probably hook you up.
- Bazi Bierbrasserie: The American Outlaws Portland chapter has a lot of their watch parties at this Euro-styled beer bar. They also have FIFA 15 tournaments, so you know it's cool.
- Horse Brass Pub: It's a Portland original, or as close as it gets in this fast-evolving city, having opened in 1976. It's a traditional English-style pub with a damn good tap list and bangers and mash. Oh, and there's always soccer on.
WHERE TO VISIT
- Breweries: They say there are more breweries in Portland per capita than any other city.
- The Columbia River Gorge: It's about a 15-minute drive from the city to the gorge's westernmost boundary, and it offers some of the most breathtaking views in the country. Hike the trails that feature countless waterfalls, or just drive right up to Multnomah Falls viewpoint for plenty of Instagram opportunities.
- Tom McCall Waterfront Park: If it's summertime, it's Portland's paradise. Jog, skate, bike or just walk along the Willamette River right in the middle of the city. Perfect spot for a picnic, catching rays or just people watching.
- Honorable mentions: Pilgrimage to University of Portland's Merlo Park, where legendary soccer coach Clive Charles turned the Pilots into a national powerhouse. It's now home to USL side Timbers 2. Also the Oregon Coast or Mt. Hood.
MATCHDAY
It starts hours before kickoff, with neighborhood bars filling up and diehard Timbers Army members cracking beers while waiting in line. It's not uncommon to have a few fans set up tents and start the festivities the night before. Considering the fact that cozy Providence Park has been sold out for every regular-season match since the Timbers joined the league in 2011, it becomes a neighborhood block party with ticketless fans crowding the nearby sports bars for viewing parties. The Northwest Portland neighborhood that's home to the stadium only adds to the close-knit feel of a match day.
MATCHDAY TIPS:
- Get there early: The Timbers Army section is general-admission, so if you want to sit up close, be prepared to wait in line for hours.
- Dress appropriately: When it rains, it pours. Only a few seats are covered. Even those don't protect from the sideways variety.
- Be ready for anything: Sensitive ears? Have earplugs at the ready. That applies to those sensitive to a few profane chants here and there. It's also an old, and somewhat constrained, stadium. So be prepared to wait in more lines and get to know your neighbor, even if he/she is a Sounders fan. Oh, and you'd better know the chants.