There’s more to soccer culture than the professional game, which is why we’ve put together guides for each of MLS’ 19 markets. Whether you’re just dropping in on vacation or hitting the road with your fellow supporters, here’s the lowdown on what to do and how to do it.
SOCCER CULTURE
Consistent growth at the grassroots level and a multicultural fervor for international tournaments has provided a solid base for the beautiful game in Montreal. The Impact, the city's only professional club to date, are trying to turn consistent support into a bid to emerge from the shadows of almighty ice hockey, the ruler of the realm in the Great White North.
WHERE TO PLAY
There are plenty of spots for a kick about in Montreal – see this useful, non-exhaustive list from the City itself. If you're staying downtown, stop by Parc Toussaint-Louverture, on Boulevard de Maisonneuve near Rue Saint-Dominique. Ask if you can join in. Further north, Parc Père-Marquette (Boulevard Rosemont near Rue Marquette) has a couple of fields for you – local leagues play there. If you stop by Parc du Mont-Royal on a Sunday (more on that later), try your luck at Parc Jeanne-Mance (Rue de l'Esplanade/Avenue du Mont-Royal).
LOCAL CUISINE
- La Banquise: (994 rue Rachel E) Clichés are clichés because there's truth to them; get poutine while in Montreal. La Banquise offers a fine "classique" (French fries, cheese curds and gravy), but the other 30 variations will clog your arteries in a most delicious way.
- Schwartz's: (3895 boulevard St-Laurent) Enjoy Montreal's finest smoked meat sandwich at Schwartz's Deli. It is part owned by René Angélil, a guy who knows a thing or two about successful investments: He once turned some singer called Céline Dion into a global celebrity.
- Au Pied de Cochon: (536 rue Duluth E) This is on the pricier side, and you will ingest calories – lots of them. Chef Martin Picard revisits several traditional Québécois dishes. Book in advance.
- Honorable mentions:Olive+Gourmando (351 rue St-Paul W), Pizzeria Napoletana (189 rue Dante), St-Viateur Bagel & Café (1127 rue Mont-Royal E)
SOCCER BARS
- Burgundy Lion: (2496 rue Notre-Dame O) English breakfast, football included. Say no more.
- Champs: (3956 boulevard St-Laurent) This place will get packed for big events like the World Cup and the Euros. Make friends.
- Frappé: (3900 boulevard St-Laurent) The Ultras Montréal flock the place to watch the Impact's away games, but other soccer events will attract lovers of the game just the same.
- Bruno Sport Bar (313 rue Beaubien E) Unlikely to come up in city guides, but they'll change the channel to MLS if you ask nicely. And really, that's all you need.
WHERE TO VISIT
- Les tams-tams du Mont Royal: (George-Étienne Cartier Monument at Parc du Mont-Royal, every Sunday afternoon in the summer) Musicians and percussionists have been gathering for spontaneous jams around the monument for decades.
- Marché Jean-Talon: (7070 avenue Henri-Julien) It's an open-air market with so many kiosks and merchants you won't need to stop at the supermarket. Some nice restaurants surround the market as well, and Little Italy is close by.
- Musée d'art contemporain de Montréal: (185 rue Ste-Catherine E) Montreal's museum of contemporary art is affordable, and the exhibitions never disappoint. It is connected to Montreal's "underground city" – a network of tunnels that will get you to subway stations, malls and other attractions.
- Honorable mentions: Old Montreal (on the banks of the Saint Lawrence River), Saint Joseph's Oratory of Mount Royal (3800 chemin Queen Mary), Les Francofolies de Montréal (French music festival from June 11 to June 20, various locations)
MATCHDAY
The language makes a matchday unique. Stade Saputo is the only place in the league where the chants are mostly in French. The public address announcing is bilingual – pick up a couple of French phrases here and there. People around you probably speak both languages. Strike a conversation, ask questions if need be.
MATCHDAY TIPS:
- Get to the stadium on time – or earlier: Montrealers are notoriously late to most events, including soccer matches. If your seat is located within the home support and you're late to the game, chances are there'll still be a queue to get in. The entrance for away supporters isn't as crowded.
- Make the most of your day around Stade Saputo: What do the Olympic Stadium, the Planétarium, the Biodôme, the Insectarium and the Jardin Botanique (botanical garden) have in common? They're all within walking distance from Stade Saputo. Explore the surroundings if the schedule lets you.
- Attend a game by night if you can: Generally speaking, the gameday atmosphere has been much better at night than in the afternoon since Montreal joined MLS. The supporter groups are louder for some reason, and you won't fry under the Montreal sun – yes, we do have summer up here, and it's underrated.
